The New Black

a project by Ruediger Glatz Vogue Partner Site

Jeanne Lanvin Exhibition // Palais Galliera

The Palais Galliera, in close collaboration with Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin, is honouring the oldest French fashion house still in business. This first Paris exhibition devoted to Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) features over a hundred models from the amazing collections of the Palais Galliera and the Lanvin Heritage. From March 8th to August 23rd, 2015

Mademoiselle Jeanne began her career as a milliner in 1885. In 1889, she opened a shop “Lanvin (Melle Jeanne) Modes” at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, then in 1893 acquired her premises at 22 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. In 1897, she gave birth to her only daughter, Marguerite, who became her primary source of inspiration. In 1908, Jeanne Lanvin hit upon the new idea of children’s clothes. The following year, she opened the Young Ladies’ and Women’s department. That same year, she joined the Syndicat de la Couture, the designers’ union, and entered the closed world of French Fashion Houses. There followed a brides’ department, departments for lingerie and furs and, in the early 1920s, interior decoration and sport. In 1926, the entrepreneurial designer launched into men’s fashion. She also opened shops in Deauville, Biarritz, Barcelona, Buenos-Aires, Cannes, and Le Touquet … Inspired by the intense blue in frescoes by Fra Angelico, that same quattrocento blue became her favourite colour… In 1927, she celebrated her daughter Marguerite’s thirtieth birthday with the creation of the legendary perfume Arpège. The famous logo designed by Paul Iribe, depicting the couturière with Marguerite, is displayed on the round bottle created by Armand Rateau. The same logo is still featured on Lanvin creations to this day.

Jeanne Lanvin used travel diaries, swatches of ethnic fabrics and a vast library of art books to feed her curiosity and inspire her to create fabrics, patterns and exclusive colours. Jeanne Lanvin represents artistry in materials, embroidery, topstitches, twists, spirals, cut-outs – all the virtuosity of the couturière’s craft. It is classical French perfection, with very 18th century style dresses – slender bust, low waist, ample skirt – contrasting with the tubular line of Art Deco with its black and white geometrical patterns, the profusion of ribbons, cristals, beads, and silk tassels.

A capacity for hard work and an intuitive understanding of the modern world only partly explain the extraordinary success of this discreet woman.

Alber Elbaz and the Palais Galliera with it´s Curator Olivier Saillard invite you to an encounter with this great lady of haute couture, Jeanne Lanvin.

MARGIELA // FW15 PFW

The first Maison Margiela Paris runwayshow with designer John Galliano at Grand Palais.

In evoking a calculated imperfection, the individual emerges ..

Maison Margiela proposes a new alignment and the evolving „fil rouge“ of the ‘Artisanal’ collection. Whispered to life, garments question ideas of conformity, and the élan of the individual rises to the fore. Innocence is celebrated, articulating a new standard of beauty.

An ephemeral muse returns, her power reactionary and sensitive. Personalities shine in characters mingled through a sepia lens. Transformation is vital; spontaneous, cathartic gestures meet studied craft for an attenuated silhouette and its immediate release. The twin lives of a garment are the key to its nonchalance, just as day fades into night. Such musings disregard the dated concerns of what to wear, and when.

Tailoring and flou find new proportions, both charming and askew. Just as fabrics are imbued with memory and emotion, their allure serves new context across the articulated body. At times, they reference themselves; elsewhere they allude to a deeper metafiction. Decoration follows suit: naive flowers and feathers subvert the bourgeoisie through a muted joie-de-vivre. At once diffused and saturated, their colours allude to a warm sense, a fashion lo-fi: like polaroids inflected with acid dreams.

AALTO // FW15 PFW

Some impressions of the presentation of the new fashion label AALTO at the FAUST during FW15 Paris Fashionweek.

Young Heroes
Invincible and Invulnerable
Fall/Winter 2015-2016

Young Heroes draws inspiration from Finland. The Paris-based designer, Tuomas Merikoski, looked to youth culture in Finland, returning to his native roots to create a nonconformist first collection, imbued with the spirit of the invincible and invulnerable, with a witty nod to the extremity of this Northern land.

AALTO´s website

JACQUEMUS // FW15 PFW

jacquemus ” l’ enfant du soleil”

I wanted poetry like that of a Michel Gondry movie, of childhood, of decoupages, a childlike woman again, not even, a sexless child. Who wears masks, puts make-up on and plays with making clothes. Clothes from her father, her mother. I wanted nature too. Primitive and naive, those are the words that I immediately wanted to attribute to this collection. Freedom also to do, to say and to have fun, spontaneously.

website of  JACQUEMUS

ANREALAGE // FW15 PFW

The collection „LIGHT“ was presented in Palais des Beaux Artes with the words : Light up dark – to see what is there, light up clothes – to see what is not there.

A collection crafted on a extremely high level – transporting the idea of light – which unveils it´s real texture, color and form only under the focus of a guided spotlight. „It is the light that shows the truth and the beauty“ says the designer Kunihiko Morinaga. A surreal silhouette of rigid jackets and coats with over-dimensional  mutton sleeves combined with floating asymmetrical skirts and dresses. Raw pattern based on dots, checks and calcaneal gaits mesh with tender floral patterns, which only appear in moments of interferencing uv-spotlight and otherwise stay black. The to black reduced make-up takes the identity of the models and emphasises the focus on the fashion – which it deserves.

ANREALAGE combines the words „real“, „unreal“ ans „age“. The brand is the brainchild of fashion Japanese designer who believes, „God is in the detail“.

website of anrealage

words by Annica Thoms

 

 

DOCUMENT dinner // SS15 PFW

Shooting during a dinner hosted by New York’s DOCUMENT magazine during Paris SS15 fashion at a lovely location close to Notre Dame and next to the Seine.